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AudioHitchhiking

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  1. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf questor in Tempo, Steigung und der Kalorienverbrauch - eine UL-Kurvendiskussion.   
    Ein Kalorien Verbrauchsrechner speziell für's Wandern, der Steigung und Geschwindigkeit mit in Betracht zieht.
    https://www.outsideonline.com/2394938/how-many-calories-burned-hiking
    Ich hab's mal unter Küche rubriziert, da es ja eigentlich nur Sinn macht, sich damit auseinanderzusetzen, wenn man Verpflegung plant und sich mit der notwendigen Kalorienaufnahme auseinandersetzt. Wäre aber vielleicht auch in Philosophie nicht ganz falsch aufgehoben?
    Was ich für uns UL-Evangelisten besonders interessant finde ist die Exponentialität die hier deutlich wird. Als einer der Vorteile des geringen Baseweights gelten große Distanzen und damit verbunden auch oft eine recht hohe Geschwindigkeit, die erst durch das Baseweight leichter möglich wird.
    Disclaimer - jetzt wird es nerdig:
    <ul-nerd>
    Steigen wir nun aber in die "Ul-Kurvendiskussion" für Fortgeschrittene ein, verhält es sich aus UL-Nerdsicht doch ähnlich wie beim Pkw Spritverbrauch (oder auch in der anverwandten und hier in Exzellenz betriebenen, angewandt-experimentellen Spiritusbrennerforschung am weltweit führenden Lehrstuhl des Prof.Dr.Dr.Hobolog.Spiritus Rector @Andreas K.):
    Ab eines gewissen Sweetspots wäre es völlig unökonomisch, noch weiter Gas zu geben, man würde exponentiell viel Energie verbrennen, die man mitschleppen und wieder zuführen müsste, bei im Verhältnis dazu geringer Zeitersparnis / Distanzgewinn. Während das manchmal und für bestimmte (Zeit)Abschnitte begründet Sinn machen kann (sportlicher Aspekt, oder auch nur das Erreichen des Campspots vor Dunkelheit oder heranziehender Regen), wäre die grundsätzliche Praxis, möglichst schnell und ohne Berücksichtigung der Steigung unterwes zu sein nicht im UL-Sinne, sondern eher Manta-Fahrer-Mentalität: Ich geb Gas, Ich hab Spaß.
    Sollten wir uns nach reiner Lehre also stets dieses Zusammenhangs bewusst sein - und je nach Steigung bewusst in der Geschwindigkeit zügeln oder sie steigern, um die perfekte Energieausnutzung zu erreichen? Kommt bald der in's GPS eingebaute UL-Tempomacher, ähnlich wie bei Running-Apps, dort allerdings abhängig vom eingestellten Zielpuls? Müsste ja sogar recht einfach umsetzbar sein, Steigung und Geschwindigkeit und Ziel-Kalorienverbrauch wären ja zumeist bekannt.
    Oder macht ihr das alle eh schon instinktiv und ich bin der Party-Zuspätkommer?
    </ul-nerd>
  2. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf Mars in Safiental (CH)   
    Mein Konto dreht wieder mal ins Plus: Eine 100 % Anstellung bei einer offiziellen Behördenstelle / Amt spült Geld in schon lange nicht mehr gesehenen Höhen darauf. Also los zum Outdoor-Händler meines Nicht-Vertrauens, jene, die mit der Fachberatung werben, die mir aber getrost gestohlen bleiben kann. Die meisten “Berater” sehen nicht mal aus, als wüssten sie besonders lange zu laufen. Dafür kostet eine Uberlite R ungefähr 50 Stutz mehr als überall sonst. Sei's drum, es ist Freitag, später am Tag möchte ich mich gerne darauf legen. Als fanatischer SUL-Anhänger bevorzuge ich zwar CCF, aber eben so von wegen Winter und so. 
    Mein Job ist echt anstrengend, die Woche hat mich ausgelaugt. Echtes physisches Aktenhandling. Leider zählen zu unseren Zwangsklienten auch richtig bekloppte Automobilisten. Jede Parkbusse lösst ungefähr 5 Seiten Akten aus. Manche werden am Tag mehrmals gebüsst, ehe man sich versieht, bewegt man hunderte von Seiten pro Fall.   
    Mein Ziel ist das Safiental. Offenbar gibt es dort die meisten Wolfssichtungen, momentan und in der Schweiz. Eine Juristin im Büro hat uns vor diesen Viechern gewarnt, sie macht mit Waffen (entscheidet also, wer alle seine Waffen abgeben darf und ordnet auch Hausdurchsuchungen an) und sprach darum mit einem Jäger. 
    Nichts wie hin. Für das ganze Wochenende sind Gewitter vorausgesagt. Vor Chur regnet es bereits, dann in Chur nicht mehr. Als ich in Versam aus dem Zug steige, geht es jedoch wieder los. Das Gewitter ist über uns, zwischen Blitz und Donner vergehen keine fünf Sekunden. Die Campervan-Fraktion sitzt in ihren Wagen, einige haben die Heckklappe geöffnet und finden es wohl sehr romantisch. Mit der Abgebrühtheit eines Möchtegern-Langdistanzhikers schreite ich über den Parkplatz, der sich bereits unter Wasser befindet. Dann hinauf, Richtung Versam Dorf. Nachdem hier im Forum mit der Polizei gedroht wurde, von wegen Übernachtungen tief im Wald, könnt ihr nun gerne annehmen, ich hätte meine Uberlite im örtlichen Landgasthof getestet. 
    Nichts knistert mehr, wenn man jedoch das Gewicht verlagert, hört man dies, ähnlich einem Luftballon. Das neue Ventil hält die Luft nur noch mit den “Wings”, der Schraubverschluss hat nur noch eine halbe Drehung. Undicht by design. Es wird wohl bald eine Überarbeitung dieses Ventils geben. Der Luftverlust ist spürbar, aber nicht dramatisch. Der Luftdurchsatz des Ventils ist hingegen sensationell. Man kriegt die Matte schnell aufgeblasen und auch schnell wieder leer. 
    Der Pumpsack ist ein Witz. Irgendwo habe ich mal einen TaR Typen gehört, der empfahl, diesen Pumpsack als Stuffsack zu verwenden. Wozu? Er ist mit Nichten und Neffen wasserdicht. Die Stoffkanten werden immerhin durch ein Band vor dem Ausfransen gesichert, aber die Nähte sind nicht mal getaped. Die Verbindung zum Ventil der eigentlichen Matte ist zu schwach. Man kann dies aufstecken, wenn man den Pumpsack aber unter Druck setzt, löst sich die Verbindung. Für Hobbyisten vielleicht, für Möchtegern-Elite-Ultralangdistanz-Menschen ein grosses Ärgernis. TaR verkauft hier schlicht und einfach Abfall, der Pumpsack kommt nun mit jeder Matte. Humor haben sie ausserdem. Auf dem Pumpsack steht, man solle in den Pumpsack hinein blasen. OK, aber warum kann ich dann nicht direkt in die Matte hineinblasen? Entzieht dieser Pumpsack auf magische Weise der Luft die Feuchtigkeit?  
    Es regnet nur einmal, bis ca. am Morgen um vier. Hätte ich mein Zelt aufgestellt, so hätten die dicken Tropfen von den Bäumen ein hübsches Plop auf dem DCF ausgelöst. Am Morgen hätte ich mein Zelt von ca. 10 Schnecken befreien müssen. Ich wäre nicht gestört worden, obwohl ich nur ca. 15 Meter vom Weg entfernt gelegen wäre. Dies wäre schon die zweite Nacht im Dauerregen gewesen, mein Zelt hält immer noch dicht, obwohl es von der Kritik vernichtet wurde. Je häufiger ich es benutze, desto mehr überzeugt es mich. Ja, das DCF ist dünn, na und? Wenn das Zelt einen Bärenangriff überstehen soll, ist es wahrscheinlich nicht mehr besonders leicht. Plus: Es ist eine Villa. Ein Duplex bietet wohl noch ein wenig mehr Fläche, sieht aber nicht halb so schön aus. Das Auge isst mit, meine geschweissten DCF Verbindungen sind einfach cool. 
    Am Morgen packe ich alles zusammen und freue mich auf einen langen Wandertag. Keine 50 Meter nach meinem äh Landgasthof ist auch schon der Waldrand. Ein neuer VW Bus steht da, er sieht aus wie ein Campervan. Aha, da sind sie nun, die Pärkler, über die sich alle aufregen? Ein Blick auf das Nummernschild verrät etwas anderes, GR steht für Graubünden, also ein einheimisches Fahrzeug, im Innern eine Hundebox. Dies könnte sogar ein Mitglied der Forstpolizei sein. 
    Ich laufe durch Versam, ein Junge der auch noch nicht 18 Jahre alt sein könnte, braust mit seinem Motorrad herum, ohne Helm. Keine zwei Minuten später sehe ich den nächsten ohne Helm, dafür mit einem Laubbläser quer über den Lenker. Wir sind irgendwie abseits der Zivilisation? Versam hat eine Kanuschule, unten, am Rhein. Hier oben werden alte Kanus als Blumenkisten verwendet.

    Calandamassiv (Bildmitte). Dort lebt ebenfalls ein Wolfsrudel. 
    Ich steige und steige. Nach der Alp Brün mache ich eine Pause. In vier Stunden habe ich gerade mal 11.5 km geschafft. Ja, es war steil aber ich war auch schon schneller. Natürlich sind die Wölfe zusammen mit den Hirschen noch weiter oben. Ich quere jedoch einen Hügelzug und tauche dann ab ins Safiental. Zunächst nochmals hinauf zum Tenner Chrütz. Immerhin bin ich nun auf 2000 m, mein Landgasthof war auf nichtmal 1000. Es geht nun wieder runter auf 1153, zu einem kleinen Stausee nach Egschi. Der Stausee ist leer. Entweder wurden bereits alle vom Wolf geholt, oder die Leute sitzen alle zu Hause. Zwei drei Biker, eine andere Wanderin. 
    Der Weg nach Safien Platz ist langweilig, es regnet. Es ist bereits 17:30 als ich endlich in Safien Platz ankomme, die Sonne scheint wieder. Eine Beiz hat noch offen. Natürlich kann man nicht mit Postcard bezahlen, auch ein Merkmal mangelnder Zivilisation. Trinke ich halt einen Liter Bier. Danach habe ich einen sitzen, ich trinke höchstens einmal in zwei Monaten Alkohol. Macht nichts, nun kann ich wieder steigen. Das Ziel heisst nun Glaspass, 500 Meter weiter oben. 
    Ein Nebenefekt meines plötzlichen Reichtums war, dass ich mein Mobilfunkabo wieder bezahlen kann. Dadurch wurden auch meine “Mehrwertdienste” wieder eingeschaltet und ich konnte folge dessen Apple Music wieder abonnieren. Natürlich erinnerte sich Apple auf wundersame weise an meine Playlists. TOOL, Sepultura, Slayer, Rammstein - alles wieder da. Und natürlich die lustigen Liedchen der Irish Brigade und von Chumbawamba. Ich höre also TOOL als kleine Motivationshilfe. Als ich oben bin, wird es Zeit den nächsten Landgasthof aufzusuchen. 32 km in 11 Stunden! Es gab 2300 m Höhe, aber trotzdem eher blamabel. Ich sehe auch einen Spotter, er ist mit allerlei Ferngläsern und riesigen Fernrohren ausgerüstet. Wahrscheinlich liegt die fette Holland & Holland auf dem Rücksitz seines Wagens, zum Selbstschutz oder so. 
    Ein Landgasthof wäre jetzt sehr schnell gefunden: Einfach auf der Karte eine Waldstrasse suchen, die in einer Sackgasse endet. Fertig. Um nicht aus der Übung zu fallen, gehe ich sogar dorthin. Es wäre wirklich perfekt. Von Tannen abgeschirmt, von aussen nicht einsehbar, keine fünf Minuten vom Wanderweg entfernt. (Fast) ultraorthodox LNT, auf einer Strasse gefährdet man kaum seltene Pflanzen oder was auch immer. Für Hirsche, auf dem Weg in den abendlichen Ausgang, gäbe es genug Platz, mich zu umgehen. Die Chance, dass ein verirrter Biker oder gar das Jagdkommando der Forstpolizei an einem Samstag Abend nach neun hier nach dem Rechten sehen kommt, ist unter null.
    Für die Nacht ist wieder Regen angesagt. Täte ich jetzt frevelhaft mein Zelt auspacken, so könnte ich durch das Mesh am Innenzelt dutzende von Mücken beobachten, während ich bequem auf meiner Uberlite eindämmern würde, beim Rauschen eines kleinen Bächleins. Ein fettes Grinsen würde mein Gesicht entstellen, beim Gedanken an all die Genossen von der Tarpfront, mit ihren Schirmen und dem Mückennetz darüber. Zufrieden würde ich mich noch einmal strecken, ich hätte alles was ich brauche in Griffnähe. Wenn mich ein Hüngerlein plagte, würde ich einfach aufsitzen und essen. Neben meinem Foodbag liegt eine Flasche mit feinstem Powerbar-Wasser. Für den unwahrscheinlichen Fall, dass es mich an den Wanst friert, liegen Kleider bereit. Ich könnte dies alles tun, ohne auch nur einmal mit einer Mücke in Berührung zu kommen. In der Nacht würde mich nur das Bellen eines Fuchses und morgens um vier das Kläffen eines Hundes von irgendeiner Alp stören.  

    Hier hätte ich übernachtet, hätten mich die Kommentare hier nicht davon abgehalten! Nach LNT sollte man nie auf lebenden Pflanzen sein Lager aufschlagen. Nach besonders seltenen Orchideen sah dies aber auch nicht gerade aus. Wie gesagt, dies ist das Ende einer Waldstrasse. 
    Als rechtschaffender Bürger verbringe ich aber die Nacht natürlich im Sitzen, oben beim Parkplatz, es gibt einen kleinen Unterstand, mit einer PET-Sammelstelle. Natürlich vergesse ich mein Telefon unten, am nächsten Morgen gehe ich es holen! Ein Campervan hat sich auf den Parkplatz verirrt, den sehe ich aber erst am nächsten Morgen, ich hatte ja den Unterstand nicht verlassen, was denkt ihr denn? 
    Leider ist es schon Sonntag, ich gehe trotzdem noch schnell rauf auf den Glaser Grat. Um 7:15 bin ich oben, fett #BLM ins Gästebuch geschrieben, wer sich daran stört wird hoffentlich vom Wolf geholt oder wenigstens in den A***** gebissen.  

    Aussicht vom Glaser Grat. Gestern war ich ganz unten im Tal.
    Es gibt einen Erlebnisweg, wieso der Lüschersee nicht mehr ist, finde ich erst durch Googeln heraus. Ich steige noch ein wenig ab, durch sehr hässliche Dörfer, irgendwann so um zehn Uhr habe ich keine Lust mehr. Ab ins Postauto und Tschüss. 
    Obwohl ich den ganzen Samstag in Sealskinz Socken unterwegs war, ziert keine einzige Blase meine Pfoten. Topo for the win. Natürlich habe ich die Hardcore Version namens Runventure 3, Zero Drop, mehr Härte als der Ultraventure. Dafür 10 Stutz günstiger. Ich befürchtete schon, einen Mist gekauft zu haben, nach meinen Flachland-Touren taten mir die Pfoten weh - wahrscheinlich psychosomatisch.
    Für bergiges Terrain und einigermassen vernünftige Wanderwege sind die Schuhe perfekt. Eben Altras für Möchtegern-Langstreckler. Herr Post hat da was Feines geschaffen. 
  3. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von Ollympus erhalten in Bikepacking Taschen - das Problem mit Gewicht und Stabilität   
    130€ ist ohne Frage nicht günstig. Im Vergleich zu qualitativ hochwertig Alu Gepäckträgern aber nicht astronomisch hoch. Bis jetzt waren jedenfalls die  Gepäckträger für weniger als 60-70 Euro die ich mir angesehen habe entweder von der Konstruktion für mein Gravelbike nicht verwendbar oder Qualitativ nicht gut und schon schief wenn sie bei mir angekommen sind.
    Wenn du also einen Tip für einen günstigeren hochwertigen Gepäckträger hast wäre ich dankbar (aktuell fahr ich mit ner gebraucht gekauften Ortlieb Sattelrakete aber das Konzept Satteltasche ist mir einfach zu unpraktisch vom Handling und Gewackel)
     
    Die Frage ob man jetzt das doppelte vom Preis eines Aluträgers ausgeben will um das Gewicht des Gepäckträgers zu halbieren wenn es an den meisten Bikes noch deutlich bessere Stellen für Gewichtseinsparungen gibt (meistens der Laufradsatz) kann man durchaus stellen.
    Aber Titan Gepäckträger sind nun mal ein Nischenprodukt und der Airy ist mit großem Abstand günstigste auf dem Markt. Alle anderen aus Titan die ich finden konnte kosten mindestens das doppelte.
    Wenn es lohnenswert wäre Titangepäckträger günstiger anzubieten würde sich garantiert ein Hersteller finden der dies macht, aber die Absatzzahlen sind für eine Niedrigpreiskalkulation über Masse anscheinend nicht hochgenug. 
     
     
  4. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von Zippi erhalten in Bikepacking Taschen - das Problem mit Gewicht und Stabilität   
    130€ ist ohne Frage nicht günstig. Im Vergleich zu qualitativ hochwertig Alu Gepäckträgern aber nicht astronomisch hoch. Bis jetzt waren jedenfalls die  Gepäckträger für weniger als 60-70 Euro die ich mir angesehen habe entweder von der Konstruktion für mein Gravelbike nicht verwendbar oder Qualitativ nicht gut und schon schief wenn sie bei mir angekommen sind.
    Wenn du also einen Tip für einen günstigeren hochwertigen Gepäckträger hast wäre ich dankbar (aktuell fahr ich mit ner gebraucht gekauften Ortlieb Sattelrakete aber das Konzept Satteltasche ist mir einfach zu unpraktisch vom Handling und Gewackel)
     
    Die Frage ob man jetzt das doppelte vom Preis eines Aluträgers ausgeben will um das Gewicht des Gepäckträgers zu halbieren wenn es an den meisten Bikes noch deutlich bessere Stellen für Gewichtseinsparungen gibt (meistens der Laufradsatz) kann man durchaus stellen.
    Aber Titan Gepäckträger sind nun mal ein Nischenprodukt und der Airy ist mit großem Abstand günstigste auf dem Markt. Alle anderen aus Titan die ich finden konnte kosten mindestens das doppelte.
    Wenn es lohnenswert wäre Titangepäckträger günstiger anzubieten würde sich garantiert ein Hersteller finden der dies macht, aber die Absatzzahlen sind für eine Niedrigpreiskalkulation über Masse anscheinend nicht hochgenug. 
     
     
  5. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf grmbl in Schnäppchen = 20%?   
    Also Moderatoren entlasten finde ich auch immer eine gute Idee, aber ist die 20%-Regel nicht das Gegenteil? Könnte neben dem "Biete"-Tag der neue Dauerbrenner in den To-Dos werden, oder nicht? Also ich hatte den Eindruck das lief bislang doch bis auf paar Ausreißer ganz ok mit den Schnäppchen, Wilbo hat das ganz gut zusammengefasst finde ich.
  6. Danke!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von UL-MUC erhalten in Schnäppchen   
    Osprey Levity 45 um 50% reduziert: https://www.globetrotter.de/osprey-tourenrucksack-maenner-levity-45-parallax-silver-1205025/
  7. Danke!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf hhourglass in Reiseplanung in Zeiten des Corona Virus...   
    In meinen Augen geht es nun darum die eigene Reiselust auch mal hintenanzustellen und sich mit damit zu befassen, warum es notwendig ist mit möglichst wenig Menschen in Kontakt zu kommen.
    Eigenschutz und der Schutz anderer sollten da schon bedacht werden. In ländlichen Regionen mag es durchaus möglich sein unterwegs zu sein ohne Menschen zu treffen aber ich wohne mitten in der Stadt und werde bis auf Einkäufe und Spaziergänge, mit ausreichend Abstand zu anderen, zu Hause bleiben.
    Ich habe das "Glück", dass die Uni dicht ist und ich somit auch nicht täglich zur Arbeit muss.
     
     
  8. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von momper erhalten in Schnäppchen   
    Es gibt mittlerweile auch den baugleichen Adapter von Kovea zumindest in U.K. wieder zu kaufen: https://www.mercatorgear.com/index.php/products-listing/product/71-kovea-p-adapter
    Ich hab ihn dort vor drei Wochen bestellt, war zwei Tage später schon da.
  9. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von Vee erhalten in Schnäppchen   
    Osprey Levity 45 um 50% reduziert: https://www.globetrotter.de/osprey-tourenrucksack-maenner-levity-45-parallax-silver-1205025/
  10. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von Plork erhalten in Zeigt her Eure Powerbanks - die Powerbank-Übersicht   
    Ich kann mir kaum vorstellen dass das durchschleusen durch die Powerbank effektiver  als ein gutes Dualladegerät ist.
    Ich persönlich würde mich nach einer leichten Powerbank (hab auch gute Erfahrung mit Anker gemacht, kann dir gerade aber keine aktuellen Empfehlung gebe) und einem leichten leistungsfähigem Dualladegerät umschauen. Beim Ladegerät darauf achten ob und wenn ja welche Quickcharge Technik verwendet wird und ob die mit deinem Handy funktioniert 
  11. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von skullmonkey erhalten in WRIGHTSOCK Socken   
    Ich benutze die Wrightsock Coolmesh II (low tab) im Sommer und die Endurance (quarter) im Winter zum laufen. Ich bin total zufrieden mit denen.
    super haltbar (ist aber auch Kunstfaser) Weniger Schweißfüße als bei anderen Kunstfasersocken keine Blasen (hab ich aber grundsätzlich eigentlich bei fast keiner Socken/Schuhkombination) auch bei langem Touren >50 km noch komfortabel. Ich hab das Gefühl die zweilagige Konstruktion trägt hier entscheidend zu bei. Im Vergleich zu zwei Socken übereinander rutschen die beiden Lagen nur kurzzeitig während der Bewegung und bewegen sich anschließend wieder faltenfrei in die Ausgangsposition. Bei zwei Socken übereinander hatte ich gegen Ende des Tages oft das Problem sich irgendwo doch Falten bilden. Trocknen schnell
  12. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von JanF erhalten in Was lest Ihr gerade?   
    “Endure: Mind, Body and the Curiously Elastic Limits of Human Performance“ von Alex Hutchinson
    Absolute Empfehlung für alle die sich für Ausdauersport interessieren. Eine gut zu lesende Bestandsaufnahme des wischenschaftlichen Forschungstands zum Thema Ausdauer und wovon diese beeinflusst wird.
  13. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von kra erhalten in Zeigt her Eure Powerbanks - die Powerbank-Übersicht   
    Als ich mich das letzte mal damit beschäftigt habe, gab es keine Powerbank mit Durchladefunktion die empfehlenswert gewesen wäre (das ist allerdings zugegebenerweise schon etwas her).
    Was ist denn dein Use Case dafür? Solar Panel? Ist für mich der einzige Einsatz der sinnvoll erscheint, alles andere deckt ein USB Charger für zwei oder mehr Geräte besser ab.
  14. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von Ultralight82 erhalten in Kein Schlafsack mehr...   
    Ich hab vor kurzem durch Zufall gesehen dass es von OMM ein Schlafsystem gibt das genau für solche Fälle gedacht ist. Besteht aus kombinierbarer Jacke, Hose und Footpod mit Primaloft Füllung. Klingt ganz interessant, hab mich aber ehrlich gesagt auch nicht genauer damit auseinandergesetzt: https://theomm.de/product/mountain-raid-foot-pod/ (scheinen aber Probleme mit ihrer Website zu haben, die ist heute unglaublich langsam)
    Eigentlich hatte ich mir für dieses Jahr auch mal mehrtägige Trailrunning Touren vorgenommen, aber eher an Hüttentouren in den Alpen gedacht. Aktuell kann ich aber wegen Hüftproblemen seit über drei Monaten nicht laufen und werde wohl wenn ich Dienstag hoffentlich vom Arzt das Go bekomme wieder sehr langsam bei 0 starten müssen. Mal schauen wann ich wieder soweit bin das mehrtägige Lauftouren mit längeren Etappen realistisch sind.
  15. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf FlowerHiker in Thermarest Pumpsack Adapter für 25 Cent   
    Hallo zusammen,
    gerade als Einsteiger ist es schwer den richtigen Pumpsack für die Thermarest Neoair Serie zu finden. Einige sind zu schwer, das Original ist teuer und soll auch nicht so top sein. Daher gibt es ja im Netz diverse Vorschläge, von denen ich den Folgenden umgesetzt habe, der auch sicher andere Einsteiger oder handwerklich nicht so begabte Leute überzeugen könnte. 
    Man nehme den Sea to summit Airstream Ultrasil Pumpsack. Dieser wiegt 51g und kann als Pumpsack und Drybag genutzt werden.
    Dann holt man sich drei durchsichtige Kunststoffschläuche aus dem Baumarkt mit den Innendurchmessern 10, 12 und 16 mm (je ca. 5 cm kaufen). Kostenpunkt ca. 25 Cent zusammen. Anschließend steckt man den 10er in den 12er und diese dann zusammen in den 16er. Das eine Ende kann dann in das Ende des Pumpsack gesteckt werden, das andere wird über das Ventil der Matte gestülpt. 
    So bleibt der Pumpsack heile und man muss nicht die Öffnung mit einem Dremel erweitern.
    Das Aufpumpen funktioniert sehr gut und man muss höchstens für eine richtig pralle Matte mit dem Mund einen kleinen Stoß nachgeben. Dies kommt aber sehr darauf an, wie geschickt man sich mit dem Sack anstellt. Es ist durchaus möglich das Loch mit einer Hand zuzuhalten und dann das Ventil abzusperren.
    Gesamtgewicht: Pumpsack 51g, Adapter 10g, also 61g.
    Das Ganze sieht so aus:


  16. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf retox1 in [Sammelbericht] Hardangervidda   
    Moin,
     
    nachdem @einar46 sein Interesse an einer Unterhaltung über die Hardangervidda (HV) geäußert hatte, dachte ich mir, dass ich einfach mal hier einen Sammelbericht über meine Erfahrungen in der HV verfasse. Ich hoffe, dass das so Regelkonform ist. Es folgt eine Übersichtskarte mi den ungefähren Strecken, die ich in den letzten fünf Jahren gegangen bin. Ich kann mich nicht an alle Details erinnern, die erste, zweite und die letzte Tour werden die ausführlichsten sein. Ich schreibe das quasi alles aus der Erinnerung, habe nur sehr wenige Bilder, da ich kein Fotomensch bin.
     
     

    Die dargestellte Karte stammt von UT und ist von der Norwegischen Kartierungsbehörde erstellt worden. Diese hat und hält sämtliche Rechte an dem dargestellten Kartenmaterial.©Kartverket--
    0. Prolog
    Ich bin in einem klein Städchen im Norden von Deutschland in der Holsteinischen Schweiz aufgewachsen. Aufregende Natur gab es hier nicht. Während meiner letzte Schuljahre fing ich an, religiös Bear Grylls zu gucken (nicht verurteilen bitte). Vorher hatte ich mit Outdoor nichts viel am Hut (war 3 Jahre bei den Pfadfindern, aber das zähle ich mal nicht als Outdoor). Aber das, was ich da im Fernsehen sah, hat mich gepackt.
    Los ging die Planung, nach der Schule 6 Monate Backpacking mit Wandern durch Rumänien. Für die Studienfahrt habe ich die gesamte Klasse überzeugt, nach Baad zu fahren und da mit Outward Bound eine Abenteuerwoche zu machen. Zu hause dann weiter gelesen und geguckt, wo ich hin will. Lange Rede kurzer Sinn: Habe es nicht gemacht, bin lieber zu Hause geblieben, perspektivlos und Videospielsüchtig.
    Auf Druck meiner Eltern habe ich mir dann was gesucht, von dem ich dachte: Hey, vielleicht kommst du da ein bisschen raus und lernst Disziplin. Richtig gerraten, Bundeswehr. Luftwaffe, GA bei Nürnberg, danach Objektschutz (Luftwaffen infanterie). Ich war viel draußen aber nicht so, wie ich wollte.
    2016 bin ich dann ausgestiegen und habe mich tatsächlich von meinem Computer losreißen können und mir endlich einen Traum erfüllt: Outdoor, Wander, Trekking, so wie ich es wollte. Habe viel geguckt und geplant und nach langem hin und her, wo es denn hin gehen soll, bin ich auf die HV gestoßen. Sie Bilder die ich sah, haben irgendwas in mir ausgelöst.
     
    1. Erste Schritte - Baby Steps
    Ich war nicht besonders mutig oder erfahren. Habe mir also online eine Karte der HV angeguckt und mir eine kleine Runde im Norden der HV rausgesucht. 40 km, ich dachte dass wären dann so 3-4 Tage, ist ja hügelig. Bin dann mit einem sackschweren Gregory Baltoro (ca. 20 kilo für 4 Tage wandern... und einem Kumpel los.
    Wir sind in Ovre Eidfjord (OE) gestartet und haben uns erstmal einen Aufstieg von knapp 1000 hm am ersten Tag gegönnt. Ich möchte einmal anmerken, dass der höchste Berg meiner Heimat, auf dem ich vorher war, ca. 60 Meter über nN gelegen war. In Baad hatte ich zwar mal einen Berg bestiegen aber ohne Rucksack und ich konnte mich eh nicht dran erinnern. Vielleicht kennt ja einer die Straße im Valursdalen. Für alle anderen: 6km, 950hM, 18 Serpentinen. Und das mit unserer UH Ausrüstung. Mein Wanderkumpane hatte zwar ein bisschen mehr Erfahrung als ich (er war in NZ und ist da einiges gewandert) aber ich war durch meine Zeit beim Bund besser im Training. Was aber egal war, da wir beide komplett fertig waren. In gefühlt jeder Serpentine haben wir eine Pause gemacht, Rucksack ab, hinsetzen, leiden, Rucksack auf, mehr leiden, weiter gehen.
    Wir haben dann, als wir oben waren, eine ziemlich abgefahrene Landschaft vorgefunden. Hochmoore im Nebel, tosende Gebirgsbäche, Geröllfelder soweit das Auge reichte. Auf Trampelpfaden und Behelfsbrücken durchquerten wir das Buadalen. Wir machten sogar einen Abstecher (oder auch: wir bogen falsch ab) und hatten plötzlich einen genialen Ausblick auf den Valursfossen. 
    Wir überquerten die Veig und schlugen völlig erschöpft um ca. 16 Uhr und nach (für uns damals unglaublichen) 12 km und 1370 hm das Zelt im Schatten des Harahaugane auf. Im Zelt erzählten unterhielten wir uns über den Aufstieg. Bei jedem Auto, dass von hinten kam, dachte jeder von uns still und heimlich: "Hey, wollen wir da fragen, ob die uns mitnehmen können?" Aber keine wollte es sagen, zum einen, um nicht der schwächere zu sein, zum anderen, da es gefühlt ein Ritus war, diesen Aufsteig zu Fuß zu machen. Wir glaubten, wären die HV nicht wert, wenn sie nicht zu Fuß erklimmen könnten.
    Am nächsten Tag bestiegen wir den Nonhaug und genossen erneut den Ausblick über die karge Landschaft. Anschließend machten wir erste Off-Trail Erfahrungen, da wir den Weg nicht fanden. Durch Gestrüpp und Moor ging es durch Vedal und das Gummarsteinsfjellet hinauf. Von dort hatten wir einen atemberaubenden Blick über die Svello-Ebene und hinab auf OE. Kurz hinter Fivlingen schlugen wir das Zelt auf einer Bergkuppe auf. Die Stimmung war eigentlich gut, aber auch gedrückt, da wir in wenigen Stunden zurück am Auto sein würden. 
    In den folgenden Tagen unternahmen wir Verletzungsbedingt nur einige Daytrips, auf die ich hier nicht weiter eingehen werde.
     
    2. Die erste Herrausforderung: 100km
    Nachdem ich die erste Tour also überstanden hatte, ging es direkt mit der Planung für das Folgejahr los. Studiumsbedingt war ich diesmal an den Juli gebunden, hatte also knapp 365 Tage Zeit, mein Vorhaben zu planen. Während der ersten Tour hatte ich den Ferne den selbsternannten "Nippelberg" (Harteigen) entdeckt und irgendwie hatte der etwas magisches. Er sah so fremd aus in der Landschaft der HV. Erwürdig ragte er empor. Überall schienen doe Wolken tief zu hängen, nur nicht um ihn herrum. Egal, wann wir nach ihm sahen, immer stand er da, mächtig, ruhig und mystisch. Ich schweife ab.
     
    Also, Tour 2 ging dann los. Start war diesmal in Odda. Das Auto lies ich (erste Solotour) auf meinem Lieblingscampingplatz in OE (soll keine Werbung sein, aber Myklatun ist ein sehr netter, wenn auch spartanischer, Campingplatz). Mit dem Bus fuhr ich nach Odda. Ich hatte erst überlegt, die HV in Tyssedalen zu betreten, entschied mich aber wegen der Trolltunga (wegen der Menschen) dagegen. Der Aufstieg in Odda war mörderisch. Ich hatte zwar im vergangenen Jahr viel trainiert, aber eben nur im norddeutschen Flachland. Mein Rucksack war immer noch der Baltoro, wog immer noch gute 20 Kilo. Ultralight war mir ein Fremdwort.
    Das Stück bis Mosdalsbu war relativ Ereignislos. Ich war vom Aufsteig zu kaputt, um die Landschaft richtig zu genießen. Nach der Mittagspause am See (mit einem kalten Bad bis zu den Knien oder der Hüfte) ging es dann weiter. Das Wetter war unfassbar gut, die Sonne brannte. Ich trug damals noch einen Hut. Bushcrafting-mäßig. Hatte auch genug Sonnencreme für 3 Wochen Mallorca dabei. Eine große Flasche LSF 30 und eine nicht ganz so große LSF 50 für mein Gesicht. Wenn ich mich so daran erinnere... aiaiai.
    Die Landschaft vos Mosdalsbus bis Tyssevasbu (klingt nach einer Etappe, waren aber für mich damals zwei ganze Tage) war extrem abwechslungsreich. Gut, sind auch 25 oder 30 km, da kann man das eigentlich erwarten. Aber es war alles dabei. Geröllfelder mit Brocken so groß wie Autos (ich erinnere mich noch gut ans Hüpfen), morastige Wiesen, zwei lange Staudämme mit riesigen Stauseen und zu meiner linken immer das Ringdalsvatnet, wie ein Ruhepool. Ich hatte mir die Strecke so ausgesucht weil ich dachte, dass ich mich nicht verlaufen kann, wenn es immer am Wasser langgeht. Auf dem Abschnitt von der Trolltunga (ich sah sie mir kurz an...) bis zur Tyssevasbu hatte ich zum ersten mal das Gefühl, auf dem Mond zu sein. Spitze Steine, karge Landschaften. Weit und breit nichts Grünes mehr. Bäche wurden auf Schneebrücken gequert, einmal schmiss ich meinen Rucksack über den Fluss, wollte hinterher, Schneebrücke brach ein. Musste 30 min Flussabwärts um eine neue Stelle zum queren zu finden, 30 Minuten zu meinem Rucksack. Das war toll. 
    Von Tyssevasbu bis Torehytten (wieder zwei Tage...) war es eher eintönig um ehrlich zu sein. Zwei Flüssen wurden gefurtet, sonst wear da nicht viel. Kurz vor Torehytten dann zwei große Schwarzsanddünen (denke ich mal) und... ich war ganz nah am Harteigen. Dem Berg meiner Träume. War nice. 
    Von den letzten Kilometern ist mir vorallem das Gröndalen sowie der Absteig nach Hedlo im Gedächtnis geblieben, diese beiden Orte sind unfassbar magisch und fast schon familienfreundlich von der Erreichbarkeit. Wenn ich jemanden von der HV überzeugen müsste, dann mit einer Wanderung von Torehytten bis Hedlo. Bis zum heutigen Zeitpunk für mich der landschaftlich schönste Abschnitt.
    3. Hardangervidda Thru-Hike (S-N)
    (Platzhalter)
    4. Hardangervidda Thru-Hike (O-W)
    5. Ein Spaziergang in der Hardangervidda
    (Platzhalter)
     
     
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    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf hbfire in Bewegte Bilder   
    Da in den Reiseberichten gerade der Jordan Trail aufkam hier noch ein aktueller Film über den FKT der Ultrarunner Robbie Britton and Dan Lawson
     
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    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf Out in Temperarturverhalten von Aufschraubleichtkochern   
    Angeregt durch eine kleine Diskussion in einem anderen Faden habe ich mich mal daran gemacht die beiden üblichen Leichtkocher zum Aufschrauben auf die Kartusche zu vergleichen.

    Hintergrund war z.B. der Einwand von @martinfarrent, dass der BRS 3000, der 25g Lowbudget-Titankocher, beim Betrieb viel zu heiß wird und man mit der 45g-Version (Lixada etc..) diesbezüglich wohl besser bedient sei.  Links sieht man den BRS3000 mit 25g, rechts den 45g-Kocher von Lixada. Im Hintergrund ein "CLipOn"-Windschutz von Optimus, der beim zweiten Test eine wichtige Rolle spielte.
    Das ist in der Tat u.U. eine sehr schlechte Geschichte, da eben auch die Kartusche heiß wird und somit der Innendruck in der Kartusche steigt, was unter den ungünstigsten Umständen zum Zerbersten der Kartusche führen könnte. Da ich im Winter immer "recht brisante" Gasmischungen nutze (z.B. Reinpropan, MAPP+ISOButan, Propan+Butan+MAPP etc.) ist das für mich ggf. eine existentielle Frage, wie heiß die Dinger denn nu werden. Da ich ausschließlich im Zelt meine Mahlzeiten erwärme, hätte ich im Falle einer sich ankündigen Kartuschenexplosion kaum eine Fluchtmöglichkeit.
    Also musste das getestet werden um das Temperaturverhalten der Kocher einschätzen zu können.
     
    ...Schreib gleich weiter, muss gerade für die Familie was zu Essen machen
     
    Gruß
     
    Out
  20. Gefällt mir!
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    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf thedutch in Pakistan Trekking 2018   
    Hallo Trekking Community,
    da Deutsch nicht meine Muttersprache ist und es für mich einfacher ist auf Englisch zu schreiben hier mein Reisebericht zum Trekking tour in Pakistan im Sommer 2018 mit mein Freund Davide.
    Viel spass beim Lesen.
     
    We are (David and Davide) and have been friends for a long time.
    The idea of this trip started many years ago as I (David) travelled through Pakistan in the mid-nineties. From that moment on I have always longed to go back to this fascinating wild country with  beautiful mountains and hospitable people.
    As alone is no fun I asked my friend Davide to come along on the trip and as you can read in my blog, he did!
    Davide and David with Hunza valley      
    Our Intention: Cross the Thui pass to Darkot (upper Yasin valley) from there cross the Panji pass to  Ishkoman valley, continue the trek to  Naltar valley and from there cross over to the village of Sherqilla. On our first day in Pakistan, Chitral police told us that we could not cross Thui pass due to security.
    Luckily I had plan “B” so we went for the Nazbar pass that would also get us to Darkot.
    But as you can read things worked out a “little” different.
     
     
    Day 1.We flew from Frankfurt to Istanbul were we had a connecting flight to Islamabad.
    Arrived in Islamabad early morning 3:45 as pre-arranged by a friend we were picked up by our driver Ashgar who would take us to Chitral.
    But first we needed some money and it was not very obvious where the ATM machines where hidden in the airport. But after a bit of asking we were shown by two heavy armed guards in what corner they were hidden.
    After finding out that Mastercard didn´t do the job but Visa did we left the airport for our Toyota corolla.
    The first bit of travel was in the dark but then slowly we got our first glimpse of Pakistan.
    We drove to Malakand were we encountered the Pakistani police check post and were to find out that there were many more to follow. For Davide it was the first time to Pakistan and for him it was just like driving through a documentary with three slight differences and These were;  you could smell , feel the heat and last but not least the dust in your face.
    Our driver was a kind of mixture between Niki Lauda and Michael Schumacher and he would drive as fast as the car would and overtake other traffic where he could. No faces smiled at him during some of his moves.
    Slowly driving in to the mountains it got les sticky and more scenic. We passed a few police post and handed out photo copies of passport and visa as if they were more important than our actual passports.
    When we got close to Dir I got a bad feeling at another police post were the officer required a NOC (non objective certificate) .Without an NOC we could not continue our journey.
    I tried to convince him that no more NOC for travel to Chitral is needed for foreigners but he did not believe me. Why did I not take a newspaper print with that Information! In the end Ashgar conviced him that we did not need the NOC. Ok we could travel on but the officer told us don´t stop or get out in Dir. So of we went up to the Lowari tunnel, of course with passing through a few more checkpoints.
    The mountains in this area are still forested and are a real pretty sight. Lot of beggars on every corner of the way with little plastic basket were people can drop a few rupee´s. On these steep mountain cliffs with no room for agriculture and no industry present it must be hard for the people here to earn money. What are all the kids going to do when they grow up?
    The Lowari tunnel  (8km) that has only been finished  a few years has less than 10% of the lights in order and as lots of Pakistani cars and trucks don´t have functioning lights it is a pretty scary thing driving through a tunnel with the feeling a car or truck could just bump into you.
    Finally we made it out of the tunnel and we had a feeling of looking in to the holy land.
    Driving towards Chitral the land got more and more barren and spectacular. Eroded cliffs and the “Chitral” river far below.
    Ashgar please don´t make a mistake or break an axel because we don´t want to end up down there (dead).
    Two hours before Chitral we had a lunch break and for Davide it was quit an (first) experience having lunch while all other men (no woman) in the room watched us foreigners. Of course I didn´t take long for the first guys to ask us where are we from and and and…Davide felt at ease!
    Arriving in Chitral the first thing was that Asghar took us to the police Station because all foreigners must Register when they enter Chitral. A police escort was organized to take care of us and we were told this is necessary because of security risk. I asked if our trekking tour could start at Gazin for the Thui pass trek but the answer was no and the word we would hear over and over again was “security”. I was more scared of my security in the Lowri tunnel as the days spent in Chitral. I guess it just the way you look at it!
    Ashgar took us to the Hotel of our choice by the name of Al Farooq. We took a little rest, and after that we had the hotel owner call our police escort  who took us to a local restaurant where we had a delicious Pakistani meal. On our way back we met up with a German tourist and had a chat on the roof of our hotel. We did not realize that this would be the only tourist for the next three weeks to come.
    Chitral from our hotel rooftop   Day 2. We trotted around Chitral a bit but not without our armed guard. We tried our luck on the ATM machines to find out that they only do VISA card. Even though most have master card signs on them.  Had some lunch in a typical little restaurant were the owner was pride to have us. The other people having lunch were surprised to see us foreigners. Chitral is a nice little town and to us everything looked save and we never had a glance of anyone  that did not show pleasure at seeing us. Late afternoon our guard took us down the river. We passed an old fort that had seen better days. At the river our guard asked if we wanted to share a joint with him. We thanked him and told him we don´t smoke so he smoked the joint by himself. We threw a few stones in the river enjoyed the last rays of sun and walked back to town. Our guard walked slower and slower. We wondered why?  We went for dinner at a local restaurant where we run into a handsome looking guy with a beautiful beard and long hair. He could have been a Taliban chief or a model for some fancy label. He turned out to be a doctor working for the WHO. He was responsible for polio vaccinations in all of the area north of Chitral. He talked in perfect English without a break. Interesting guy with a lot of knowledge of the area and it`s people. One part of what he told me really stuck to me. “A father in a far of village high up in the mountains did not want to vaccinate his children because he thought that the vaccination was a jewish try out on the Pakistanis population to manipulate them. The doctor asked him if he and his kids  drink Coca Cola. The answer was of course! The doctor replied, the Coca Cola company is owned by jews and it would be much easier to put some drops in every bottle than travel through Pakistan and vacinate childeren. After that the father had his kids vaccinated. By the way if he would have refused the doctor had full power to call the police and have the father send to jail.
    After this long and interesting talk our guard brought us back to the hotel. He was so stoned that were luckily not walk in to a security trap because we don´t know if he could have been of any help to us.
    Our guard in Chitral   Day 3. At six in the morning the jeep that was arranged through my friend Imran  was going to take us via Mastuj across the Shandur pass to the village of Phandar. The jeep driver was “uncle” how spoke no English and the interpreter was his nephew. The ride was a great one and we could not stop gasping and taking pictures. Shortly out of Chitral the road got rough and bumpy but this was the Pakistan we came for. We swallowed lots of dust and cleaned our throats at the next tea break at some local truck stop. The mountains where rough and barren except were there was water that was was irrigated through small channels. High up some of the valleys we could see huge glaciers. Nephew told us while passing a village that a few years ago the glacier broke loose and destroyed half of the village below. How tragic, these people that have so little and then they even lose all that they have.
    And let’s be honest about it, nobody here has insurance on a scenario like that!
    From Mastuj the road wound up the mountain side towards the plain of Laspur. The higher we went the more we felt how small as humans we are I this incredible landscape.
    Landscape between Mastuj and Shandur pass   At some point we passed an electrical turbine generating plant. What a good thing to see that some positive things of modern world have found its entrance in this almost none developed area. Short before Harchin, we were stopped by one of the many police check post on the way. But this time all was different. The Police told us we had to take an armed escort with us. Only when I told them that I was willing to sign some paper that we are here at our own risk and we don’t need an escort we could move on. The road went up towards the Shandur pass from here. Spectacular landscape with the beautiful village of Laspur shortly before we went up the last climb to the Shandur pass. I am sure that there are lots of hiking trails here to be discovered but as long as the police wants foreigners out of this area these trails will stay hidden for many years to come. Finally we reached the Shandur pass. What a place to be at the end and on top of the world. The lake, the surrounding mountains and the clear blue skies, mind blowing! I have seen a lot of mountain scenery but this place is special. After a few photos and yet another check post we passed the polo ground and a few Gujars (semi nomadic shepherds). We rolled down the mountain into Gilgit Baltistan province. At Bharsat we had to stop at the next check post. The police guys looked a bit stressed, maybe because they had to take our photo with a way to advanced camera. It took quite a while till things were done but finally we were proud owners of a special identity card that we should carry with us wherever we go in Gilgit Baltistan.
    The next few hours we passed through little villages, one prettier than the other but the thought of having to life there was not appealing.
    The drive through Phandar village is very pretty with that beautiful shining blue river in the back ground and the villagers harvesting their wheat.
    This place could truly be a pure tourist magnet with the right tourism management.
    The end of the trip was the PTDC guesthouse, a wonderful place overlooking a little lake. We said goodbye to uncle and nephew and checked in to our reserved room (not possible to just show up at a PTDC without Reservation although the place was almost empty).  We had dinner in the PTDC restaurant with more waiters than customers.
    Shandur pass   Day 4. Next morning we prepared all our gear for the hiking tour and left at 10:00 for the bus! We didn´t dare to tell anyone about our plans because we had a feeling that “security” would get us out of the area as quick as possible. We walked down the road instead of taking the bus, took some selfis with some Yyung guys and said hello to all the friendly people we met on the way. After one hour we reached the village of Shamran from where we walked of in to our mountain valley  towards Nazbar. After leaving the village we made a lunch break and congratulated ourselves that we did it.
    We were just happy walking up our trail. For Davide it was the first time in terrain as rough as this and he was kind of high on seeing all this natural beauty.
    The trail to Nazbar an   We passed some farmers preparing for winter and harvesting grass for their animals. Small water irrigation channels on the mountain side that must have been there for generations. We were just  happy.  At 16:00 we decided we had enough for the day with our heavy packs (20KG) and found a nice camping spot.
    We unpacked our bags and had our candy bar and all of a sudden two police men showed up telling us that we could not be here, security, terrorists and all the rest of it. We tried to convince them that what we are doing is legal we have permission from the ministry of tourism and we are in  an open trekking zone but they told us we had to come down as we are under terrorist threat. Even the fact that we were tired didn´t count. They would carry our packs. So we repacked and there we went back down the same trail we came up. On the trail they told us that local people saw us and that is how the Pakistani intelligence got informed. Further down the trail we were joined by a few more officers and “escorted “down . After reaching Shamran we had a quick cup of tea and some dry chapatti  (the eggs that came with the chapatti were quicly eaten by the police and nothing was left for us guests!). Still hungry we were taken  to the “save” police headquarters in Phandar in a police Suzuki jeep.
    What a day and what a journey. We were to tired to really understand what happened. Why did we have to sleep in a dirty police station and were not allowed to stay in a hotel? Nobody could tell us. What we were told was that we would meet the police commissioner of Gupis tomorrow and he would solve all our problems. Slowly we got to the point that we believed none of these “stories and promises” anymore. The question that came to our minds was if we were going to do any trekking at all? Did I choose the wrong country?
    The police that orderd us back    
    Day 5. After a short sleep the police woke us at 5 in the morning and told us to get ready as soon as possible because the minivan was waiting. There we went, back packs on top of the van, the two of us in the van with about 18 more people (my pore legs and knees) and no police escort. Maybe it is not that dangerous after all and the local police just wanted us out of their territory. In Gupis nobody took us to the commissioner, instead a police man got in the van and joined us to Gahkuch.
    Finally we got out after being squeezed for three hours and the police man took us to the police station and left without saying a word. Wauw, what a journey! Is this adventure or is this crazy?
    In the police station we met with a young guy who told us that the commissioner would see us if his time would permit.
    That was a downer and we had the feeling that all was going wrong. On top of that the young guy told us that we should arrange some trekking agency if we wanted to trek in the Hindukush because the chance of a permit for the two of us would be close to zero. In the mean time we sat in an office were the cartridge of the printer was taken out and brought back all the time, we figured out that they probably had a few printers but just one “full” cartridge for all offices.
    Without us knowing the young guy phoned his uncle who had a local trekking agency who then showed up at the police station.
    The uncle, a very friendly guy called Ayub informed us that even with his help things would not be easy to make arrangements. We decided that the best would be to go for his help.
    We went to his office that was in the same building as the Pakistan tourist Information. The Tourist Information was deserted, 6 people should be working there but they had “Tea” for the rest of the day. So no help to be expected from them.
    Together we walked  back to the police station were we waited for an audience with the commissioner. After some time we could enter his office and Ayub pled for trekking permission. The only thing we understood was the fact that the commissioner looked very serious and only shook his head as a sign of no. Both of us felt that this guy was the one that held the key to yes or no, and things didn´t look good for us!  After the conversation in Urdu was finished we left the room and Ayub told us the outcome. If the deputy commissioner who is also responsible for security n the aera would give his permission then the commissioner we just saw would also give his permission. Until today I never really got the difference between the commissioner and the deputy commissioner but we westerners don´t really have to understand all. The deputy commisioner was a friendly guy who talked English with us and we had the feeling that luck was turning to our side. So with his permission we went back to the gloomy commissioner who finally set his signature on the paper that Ayyub had prepared. It sounds like we just did this in less than an hour but in reality it took us more than three hours. With Ayub we went to a bakery and bought a cake for his sons 18-th birthday, then took a minivan to Birgal in the Ishkoman valley where Ayub runs a small guesthouse with his brother and two friends. We arrived and had a cup of tea and shared the birthday cake with his son and had the feeling that things turned out positive for us. That afternoon we discussed the details about the treks we decided to do.
    The co-owner of the agency is Ayubs longtime friend Murrad who would be our guide for the next 15 days to come.
    For Murrad it would be his first trekking tour without a full team of porters and cooks. We noticed that he felt a bit concerned but as we presented our food and equipment he got a better understanding of us guys and what we wanted to do.
    The cook of the guest house prepared some delicious trout and after great dinner and a long talk we went to sleep.
     
     
     
    Day 6. Our second adventure try started. Early in the morning a jeep picked us up and we went for the upper Ishkoman valley. In Chatorkhand our papers were checked by the police and on we went. We picked up our guide Murrad on the way. He told us that he was informed by the police that we could not travel on and had to go back to the Chatorkhand police station. Was that going to be the end of our trip?
    After a bit of discussion between Murrad and the police we were permitted to continue. So of we went  again on our second try.
    We had some amazing views of the wide Ishkoman valley  as we drove up to  Ishkoman village that would be the starting point of our trekking tour. 
    The drive up to Ishkoman   We were stopped one more time for a police check at lower Imit. Upper Imit is restricted area for tourists, as is the upper valley that connects with the Afghan border.
    In  Ishkoman village Ayub and Murrad arranged a porter.  We had tea with salt at the porters house while he packed his stuff.
    His name was Rashar, he spoke good English so we had some very good conversations for the days to come.
    The first trek we went for would be the crossing of the 4680m Punji pass that connects the Ishkoman valley with Yasin valley.
    We walked of with good weather and all us of us in a good mood. Slowly we moved higher up the valley stunning at all the natural beauty of the mountains,
    The local people living in these valleys (most of them shepherds producing butter and cheese) lead a harsh live. But as soon as we are seen they come up to our little group offer us tea, chapatti and butter. All of them are curious where we are from if we like it here and many more questions. They told us that it has been quite a few years ago that foreigners passed through this valley. What a pity such a beautiful country with such hospitable and friendly people and almost no tourists.
    After a short walking day we pitch our tent on the side of mountain close to a little stream coming down a gully. After a quick wash our famous noodle stews was prepared for the first time and even our guide Murrad liked it (even if he did not like it this was going to be the dinner for all the nights to come on our trek).
     All the tours he did until now had been with big groups, kitchen tents, lots of porters and local Food (No Aldi noodle stew from Germany).
    First day on the Panji pass trek   Day 7. After a good sleep cows from the local shepherds walked by and woke us. We had breakfast, coffee, tea and muesli. Our guide and porter preferred their own chapatti they brought with them. Well they are not the only ones that don´t like muesli. I did a 10 day trekking tour in India 1995 with my dad and he had to eat muesli every morning. After that tour he never touched a bowl of muesli again.
    We went up the mountain passing a few more shepherd huts were we had tea, chappati und butter “again”. My friend David slowly got to the point that he couldn´t eat the butter anymore. He said it was like the smell of goat was added to the butter. One of the sad things about the butter production is that we  in Germany pay less for a KG of butter as the Pakistan shepherd sells his for. 
    Don´t fall down!   We got close to the first “hanging” glaciers and it was as if we could almost touch them.
    End of the afternoon we reached the high altitude plane of Holojut at 3800m. Camp was set close to a spring with spectacular views all around us.
    With the bit of fire wood we could find we lit a campfire and had our three *** dinner. Shortly after it started to rain with strong winds so of to bed we went.
    Holojut    
    Day 8. Next day was the day of the Punji pass, unluckily the weather didn´t look to good. We reached the end of the plain and at the moment we started our ascent it started to rain. Bit of a bummer, scree ascent and rain, but nothing to do about it. Murrad had enough experience as a guide to keep our spirits high! The higher we went, the worse the weather got. So we reached the pass in the snow. What a shame, standing on a  almost 4700 meter pass and no view.
    After a view pictures proving we had reached the top we struggled down the pass in the snow until we hit the glacier and the moraine. Difficult to say what was the glacier and what was the moraine was with all the rumble on the glacier. Coming down the glacier was a bit of a slippery act and all of us lost balance and ended up with traces of mud on our pants and gear. Close to a stream and next to a shepherd shelter we camped. Pakistani mountain men love campfires so of we went in search of fire wood. It all made sense as our Porter Rashar had wet shoes and feet. After another cold night (not in our sleeping bags) we woke up with a clear blue sky.
    Panji pass 4680 meter, from left to right; David, Davide and Murrad   Day 9. Of we went down the mountain towards Darkot. It was a pleasant walk with the sun burning on our necks. After a few hours we reached the village of Gartens. All looked very idyllic but a close look showed that some fields had not been tended, the first signs of rural depopulation?
    I must say that walking through an area/village like this is a beautiful experience. But what if you had to live here during winter? Would I want to stay here for the winter, rest of my life? I have asked myself this question over and over again at various hiking trips all around the world. To be honest the answer is no.
    We reached Darkot village at 2700 meter early afternoon. . Two chairs were set up for the two foreigners at the local shop. Murrad went into the village too see if he could organize some sort of transport to Yasin.
    Darkot lies at the end of Yasin valley and the road ends here. It is surrounded by 6000 meter peaks and glaciers, the only way out is down the road that hardly should be called such.  The other direction is towards the Darkot pass direction Wakhan Corridor/Afganistan.
    We just sat there and enjoyed the sun on our bodies. The only thing negative was all the plastic surrounding the shop.
    This is one of the things that really caught my eye during our tour of Pakistan, plastic, plastic  everywhere. Will the Pakistani people notice this before it is to late?
    After an hour Murrad came back with a young guy and a car or what used to be a car. I think I have never ever traveled in anything worse than this.
    Literally it was stitched with steel wire. The road was so bad and bumpy that even with an of road motorcycle you had to have quit some driving experience to drive this road (or should I say track). Somewhere down the road we stopped at a few house and after some conversation someone came up with a hand pump. Our right front tire was losing air rapidly. The driver and the pump-owner pumped till they turned red and of we went. While driving the car across a recently flooded area it all of a sudden stopped. What a laugh, in the middle of these boulders and water passing behind and in front of us our car just stopped!
    Well I decided this is adventure and not my car and not my problem so let’s see what happens. The driver must have been some kind of mechanic or this “incident” happened before because after 15 minutes he got the engine running.
     So there we went again, Yasin we are coming! The road got better and more and more inhabited along the way. Before reaching Yasin,  Murrad explained us that the Agha Khan visited the area a few years ago and the main gathering of his followers was in Yasin. 200.000 people came to this village that maybe has 5000 inhabitants. Finally it was clear to us why so many mountain sides in the area where covered with painted white stones and the words “welcome our beloved Hazir Imam”.
     That night we stayed at some relatives of Ayub. We had a nice hot shower and looking back one of the best meals we had in Pakistan. The three of us had a room to our self’s with matrasses and blankets. Murrad told us that  most people in Pakistan prefer to sleep on the floor and don´t have beds.
     We left our shoes and smelly socks on the porch. After dinner we went to our room and sorted out things. My shoes were still there but my sock gone. Just as I realized this the old caretaker came around. Having a close look one of my socks was just peeking out of his pockets. I pulled them out and we all had a good laugh and then went to bed. If it would be me I would steal clean socks but not a pair of smelly ones!
    Murrad and Davide with Darkot in the background   Break down in the flood    
    Day 10. Next day we left for the Nazbar Ann trek.
    Davide had his first difficult night as he spend almost the same amount of time on the toilet as in his bed. But in the morning he felt Ok so there we went in a little 3 cylinder Suzuki Mehran that our host organized for us. It was a bit of a squeeze, four guys and three back packs but in Pakistan everything is possible.
    We had to get out of the car a few times as the motor overheated as the road or should I say path was pretty steep.
    What a sight, us guys getting out of that little car and helping to push it up the mountain. Well we got to a point that the little car just didn´t want to move anymore so we told the driver that this was it. He was such a nice and easy going guy that we sent him off with a nice tip.
    The start of the trail was trough cultivated area with scattered houses along the way. During our lunch break at Batakushi we had some of our nuts and chocolate and I pulled out my map and my compass and roughly figured out the pass far away. Murrad talked to one of the farmers that came for a chat. He told Murrad that the whole valley was forested until they build a tractor road 30 years ago. With that road the deforestation started until there was no tree left. Even this local guy felt sorry for what they did and what the valley looked like now. Probably just a few guys in the valley that made some short time money. We walked on through this barren valley. Higher up we passed some Gujars who spent the summer in tents with their cattle. Of course we were invited for tea but this time we thanked them and told them we wanted to move on and make some process.
    Late afternoon we set up camp close to a river on a flat piece of land and enjoying the last rays of sun. How beautiful live could be after I had my naked river shower and I felt so clean. Murrad and David just told me that I was nuts.  I went into my sleeping bag feeling hmmmmmm and they had to go for the smelly version. Ha ha ha
    Camping spot on the way towards Nazbar an    
    Day 11. Next day there was no cloud in the sky and after leaving our marvelous campsite we  slowly walked higher up the valley. Before the climb started we met a shepherd who roughly gave us some advice were to go although even he had never crossed the pass. In “ancient times” people would cross passes but in modern times it is easier to walk down the valley and catch the bus that takes you to your “next” valley destination. So fewer and fewer are familiar with these high passes.
    From the moment we said good bye to the shepherd the trail went up steep. All three of us just figured out our best trail and went up the mountain in a sort of meditational trance. At the top of a scree field we reached a high up valley. A hugh boulder with a cattle wall would be exactly the right thing for our next camp. It was still early in the afternoon but too late to tackle the pass. This would be our highest camp of the tour at roughly 4500 meters. Murrad and I went for an exploration tour to see if we could find the pass as it was not visible from our camp. David decided to take a nap and relax.
    Before we went to sleep we played a game of scopa. I did not mention this untill now but we have been playing this card game (only known by people from the Napoli area in Italy ) every camping night. Murrad became a true professional and with his Italian looks and a deck of scopa cards he could pass for a real Italian from Napoli.
    On route to high camp    
    Day 12.Next morning we got out early and no sun yet so it was freezing cold. The rocks in the little stream nearby were all covered with ice.
    But with the first rays of the sun, life became more and more enjoyable.
    We headed up the valley, climbed up a big moraine and walked up a small glacier that led up to the foot of the pass.
    The accent looked pretty steep. But as it is with mountain passes just put one foot in front of the other, don´t think too much, don´t look up to often and then all of a sudden you are on the top! Still I must say it was a steep accent and the last few meters didn´t allow any mistakes. We made Nazbar pass 4980 meters. What a view and what a beautiful day with almost no clouds and no wind. We climbed up a little higher to make sure that we did the 5000 limit and there we just sat and all three of us just enjoyed this beautiful moment. After an hour time had come to descend. A little “mini” glacier had to be crossed and from then on we walked down on moraines. Not that easy as it sounds hopping from rock to rock. We passed some very interesting looking side valleys waiting for exploration in my next life. For this life I just had to go down and it went down very steep. Looking backwards I was happy not to do this trail the other way round (that was how I had originally planned the tour). Finally we reach the Kano Gol valley, a beautiful broad valley with lots of willows and a little forests of juniper. We followed a shepherd who was tending a least 100 to 150 goat and sheep. Murrad sugguested that we do a BBQ tonight. What do you guys think? Let us talk to the guy. The shepard told us he could not decide that and had to talk to his wife. What a man Murrad said who can´t decide for himself and needs his wife!
    So we followed him to his hut for another hour and all we could dream of was this nice little roasted goat. We had sore feet but the BBQ kept us going.
    Finally we reached his hut and met his wife and two little children that looked kind of scared at us foreigners. While the tents were set up the shepherd came and told us he could not sell a goat as they were not his. This literally poor guy is nothing else than the shepherd for other people and scared as hell that somebody would find out that he sold a goat that wasn´t his. So for tonight no tasty goat, just a bowl of noodles (again).
    Ascent to Nazbar an   Nazbar an 4980 meter    
    Day 13. Next morning the sky was blue again and everything was just lovely. Down the valley the Kano gol met with the Bahushtaro gol and more and more trees in the valley. The mountains themselves had beautiful colors and it was a real pleasure to walk here. Close to the junction from where it is possible to walk toward Mastuj the valley gets wide and all looks  peaceful. We meet a few shepherds with their livestock and that was about all. At the point where the valley gets narrow we got to a place where a huge avalanche dumped enormous boulders in the valley. It took us quite some time to pass this stretch. It must have been quite something when one side of a mountain just collapses and rolls down the valley.
    We were warned by the shepherds that we had to cross a tricky bridge and we thought we were tough and seen it all. But when we got there and saw the two logs with a few loosely stones slabs on top we had a good look around if this was the only bridge. Yes it was the only one, so there we went and made it too the other side. But we knew that a drop down in the river would not be funny. Slowly it was getting late and the question was what to do? Camp in the valley or move on to one of Ayubs brothers relatives in Chasi. If we´d camp in the valley we would have to make a very early start to catch a minivan to Gahkuch. Why do all the mini van´s travel so early? Anyhow we decided not to camp in the valley but to march on to Chasi. It was the longest day we did and in the end we reached the relatives house at 19:30. We had just done an 11, 5 Hour walking day. Without the breaks we must have walked for 10 hours straight.
    The family took us in with great hospitality and a nice meal was prepared for us tired guests.
    With full tummy´s the mattresses were rolled out for us and of we went to sleep.
    What a beautiful day    
    Day 14. Next morning we had an early rise (no coffee, poor me, how can a good day start without coffee?) to make it to the road in time to get seat on a minivan.
    One thing that surprised me with Murrad was that he had some nice clean clothes hidden somewhere in his pack. So except for his unshaven beard he looked like a real gentlemen as we westerners looked a bit goofy.
    After a short hour waiting we got a seat on a minivan that took us to Gahkuch.
    At Gahkuch busstation we had paratha and tea for breakfast. I must say even with the paratha dripping with oil it was delicious. The shop owner was so happy to have us that every few seconds he asked if all was fine and where we were from.
    The Magic moment was spoilt as someone came rushing in to tell us that the next minivan for Chatorkand was leaving. We hopped on and there we went to our guesthouse. We enjoyed an easy afternoon and a quick hand wash of some cloths. After a good diner we packed for the last trekking section we would start the next day.
    The bus stop    
    Day 15. Early morning we were picked up by a small little car that took us to the start of Phakora valley. This would be our last trek that would take us over the glaciated Naltar pass into Naltar valley to continue to Sherqilla.The first bit was walking along perfectly arranged water channels. After some time the valley got narrow and the correct word would be gorge instead of valley. One soldier and his gun could withstand a whole army here. Both of us were just overwhelmed by the scenery. By afternoon time it became pretty hot and now we knew why Murrad wanted to go for an early start. Midafternoon we reached a little village called Krui where we set Camp close to one of the local huts. Most people were out with their livestock and cutting grass for the winter to come. We just had a lazy rest that afternoon. While preparing our noodle bowl for diner all eyes were watching. We offered the small crowed a try but all refused. Later that night we all joined the locals in a smokey hut and had some tea with them. We felt smoked after a few hours in the hut. All in all a great evening although we didn´t have a common language.
    Narrow gorge on the way to Naltar pass    
    Day 16. As we packed our stuff for the next day hike, Davide complained that he didn´t feel well.  I asked him, what do you feel.  His answers was something like a flue coming. I asked do you feel good enough to continue or shall we go for a rest day?  He replied that he should be ok if we go slow.
    So of we went, Davide went slowly and it seemed like he had a lack of energy. I stayed close to him just in case. By noon we had a rest and he had a nap close to a gujar hut. He told us that the smell of the butter made him feel sick. We continued our hike but Davide went slower and slower. I already emptied most of his heavy stuff into my pack but he had no energy left. At some point we traversed down a riverbed and I could see that Davide could not control his steps anymore. I signed Murrad who was in front and told him that we cannot continue like this. After a quick talk we decided to go back to a spot we just passed so that Davide could take some rest. Here the two of us decided that he was definitely sick and the best thing was to go down to lower altitude. Our rough altitude was between 3300 and 3500 meters. We struggled back with poor Davide and reached Krui by late afternoon. I sped of 15 minutes before we reached Krui to prepare the Tent and Davide´s sleeping bag. As soon as he walked into our camp he collapsed on his mattress and went to sleep underneath his sleeping bag. Some villagers came to have a look. All had some idea why Davide was sick. The one they all agreed on was that yesterday tree elder villagers came and had a talk with us. According to the others they had the power to put a spell on someone. So that’s what happened!
    My opinion was that Davide got sick because he had something wrong to eat or to drink the night before. The question you may ask why didn´t I get sick. The answer to that is that I grew up in the bush bush of Ethiopia and I can literally eat everything without getting sick.
    That night we sat in the same hut as the night before. Murrad and myself had to decide what to do next. Davide was seriously ill and we had to get him down the mountain as quick as possible. Two shepherd brothers that were in the hut with us offered to take him down the mountain on their backs. I asked them if they were serious. Davides weight is 80KG. No problem they said we are strong mountain men.
    That night Davide rolled in and out of the tent many times because of diarrhea. The poor bugger was all I could think of.
    My poor sick friend underneath his sleepingbag    
    Day 17. That next morning we walked back to Pakhora. Davide was taken on the backs of the two brothers whenever the trail went steep up or down. On the more or less straight parts he tried to walk himself. The brothers were unbelievable they ran up and down the mountain with this 80KG tourist on their back and swapped him every two, three minutes. All Davide could do was complain that the boys smelled so bad!
    When we got close to the road Murrad took off as fast as he could to organize a car for pick up. I told Davide, come on just a little more to go and then Murrad will be waiting for us with a car and it will be all over.
    The last bend and Davide did it. We put Davide in the car and off we went, straight to the hospital in Chatorkand.
    Foreigners in a local hospital in the Hindukush doesn´t happen to often so Davide was shoved into the doctor´s room straight away.
    After diagnosis he was brought into a room with four beds and one other patient. All of a sudden the room was filled with all doctors and nurses in the hospital. Davide was checked from top to bottom. Even a very modern computerized instrument for the checking of blood pressure and heart signals was brought in. The poor guy in the bed next to Davide must have thought who is this guy that gets VIP attention? Later the crew of the guesthouse came in with all the medicine orderd by the doctor. One thing about the Pakistanis, when it comes to the use of cell phones they are the best. Without us noticing all the prescriptions had been phoned of to the local pharmacist. The head of hospital himself came to set the needle in Davide´s arm . We watched, drank tea, held council next to the bed and just watched our poor sick friend. Davide fell asleep!
    After the first fluid bottle was empty another smaller bottle was connected and slowly we could see some color coming back in Davide´s face.
    After all was done the doctor came with 3 different strips of pills and told us at what time of the day they had to be taken.
    Last but not least Davide was released.
    Ayubs brother was waiting for us in his car that took us straight to the guest house.
    For Davide the ordeal was finally over and he could go to bed and rest.
    Late afternoon Murrad came by with flowers for the patient. That is what I would call great love and care for your friend.
    Davide as patient in Ishkoman hospital    
    Day 18/19. I spent the next two days with a few walks along the country side. Murrad picked me up on the back of his motorbike for a walk on the opposite side of the valley. As him being from the area and knowing everybody we were invited and had to drink tea everywhere. We passed a farmer who was harvesting his almond trees he invited us to pick what we wanted. I gathered a bag full that I later ate in Germany with my family. Everybody agreed that they never had almonds that tasty.
    After these two days Davide was recovered enough and felt it was time to leave for Hunza valley.
    The guesthouse in Birgal, the best place around for Davide to recover    
    Day 20. Next morning we got on a minivan to Gilgit. It was scary drive in the fully overloaded minivan, or was it because we had been offered the front seats next to the driver and were able to see all his takeover maneuvers. When one passenger left the Minivan and crossed the road in front of the van without watching he was almost killed by a car that overtook us. It was so close that the other car brushed him. After that everything was even scarier.
    As I told Davide before we went on the trip: I think the change of dying in a traffic accident in Pakistan is way higher than the chance of a terrorist attack!
    We got checked at many police stations over and over again. I am sure it is for everybody’s safety!
    Although I think that the number of people in Pakistan that die in traffic incidents is much higher as terrorist attacks. I wonder if the Pakistani government investigates this issue.
    We changed minivan in Gilgit and raced on to Karimabad on the KKH (Karakoram Highway).
    Compared to all those years ago when I traveled the KKH as a dirt track, the “road” may truly be called a highway now, although lots of stones and boulders block lanes on the “highway”. But I suppose they just fell down a few minutes ago!
    After roughly 5 to 6 hours minivan rides we finally made to village of Karimabad. How nice to move our long legs again after hours of poor blood circulation in a Minivan.
    We walked down the main street (there is only one) to find the Haider inn.
    The owner showed us a dorm as (all) low budget tourist take dorms. Well the two of us didn´t want a dorm but a room just for us and with a view. Our room was not ready yet so the owner cleaned the place. Well in our opinion cleaning is something else but the pakistani thing is to get the garbage out of the room sweep it and there you go. Same as they do at the Hilton Hotel!
    The room had a strange smell but things got even worse and as we opened the bathroom door. We were almost blasted away by the smell of the drainage. The room was not that bad as long as the bathroom was closed. Davide complained but I was tired and had a headache and just wanted to lie down and couldn´t be bothered too much about this typical backpacker hostel as you find all around the world. End of the afternoon I woke up and felt a lot better so we went out for some food.
    Finally after all these weeks we see the first western tourists. Even the guy with whom I applied for a visa in Germany was there. As I have noticed over and over again the backpacking world is not as big as we think it is.
    Rakaposhi morning view from the guesthouse terrace    
    Day 21. Next day we had breakfast on terrace of the hostel with a spectacular sunrise and views of Rakaposhi, the surrounding mountains and the broad valley of Hunza. Yes this is a very beautiful spot on our planet! After breakfast we went on a day tour to see the Ultar glacier. The walk took us through Karimabad past the Hunza fort and then in to the gully of the glacier. Spectacular views of the backside of Hunza fort. Finally we got to the glacier that was a bit of a scramble but we made it.
    Impressive to see the glacier melting and stones and boulders rolling down. We scrambled down and made it back to Karimabad. We checked all the little tourist shops that have popped up since my last visit. Had a shower out of the bucket with “Hunza water”. Hunza water  is glacier water that looks milky because of all the unfiltered sediments that still float in the water. People here seem to get pretty old and they blame the Hunza water for that! We played our game of scopa again and went to bed early like we have been doing almost every day since we arrived in Pakistan.
    Hunza fort    
    Day 22. Next morning we were blessed with another beautiful sunrise. Even without a “real” coffee life was heaven.
    After that enjoyment we went for a day trip to a lookout point called eagles nest. The walk to get there was an adventure as a great deal of the walk was next to water channels and some of these are constructed directly on the sides of a cliff. One wrong step and down you go. And with down I don´t mean computer game with three more lives to go!
    Eagles nest is the top of a hill overlooking the Hunza valley with all its majestic peaks that surround it. Many years ago there was just the hill top, but as more and more (local) tourist started to come to Hunza more and more hotels popped up in the area. Just filter out all of this and it still is an amazing spot.
    We spent a long time just sitting there, enjoying the view and the sun warming us. We walked down through the valley passing houses dotted on the mountain side. Life looked so peaceful here; being in this spot in Pakistan it seems difficult to imagine all the problems these wonderful people in this wonderful country encounter. Friendly people encountered us, greeting, waving and passing warm smiles. Finally we reached the valley floor and walked to Altit fort.
    We walked through the old village and saw the signs that no photos were to be taken. So the locals were fed up with tourist taking their photos as if they were taking pictures of animals in a zoo.
    On our way back to Haidar Inn we had lunch in a little local restaurant were mama was the cook and served us. Passing my memory this was one of the only woman we met in Pakistan cooking and making a living.
    The place was full of flies, the walls decorated with newspapers but the food was tasty. That afternoon we did some shopping for our beloveds at home and enjoyed a lazy afternoon.
    Hunza valley, what a beautiful place to be    
    Day 23. This day would be the last day in Hunza valley before starting our way back to Islamabad.
    As Davide missed out a big glacier on the Naltar trek we decided to go for a day trip to Hopar in the Nagar valley and see Barpu glacier.
    We decided to walk and hitch hike and see how far we´d get. On our way down to the Hunza river we were taken by a father who took his son to school and went out of his way to bring us to the bridge crossing the Hunza river. From here we walked up the Nagar valley on a beautiful blue sky day with lovely views of Ultar peak .
    Ultar peak   After some time we were taken by a bank clerk to Nagar. From there we continued our walk. One thing that we did notice during our walk was that all the women were covered up and no hello from them. The people in this valley are mainly shia muslims. Can that be the reason? After some time we were taken by two school teachers from Hopar that made a deal with us. If we would teach in their school they would take us. That was a deal. At round about 12:00 we reached the school. After a quick encounter with the other teachers we were separated and brought in to the class room. The kids looked so interested in their pretty uniforms but as I asked some questions they looked shy and nervous. Basically I told them about live in Germany and our form of democracy. Of course I couldn´t keep my mouth shut that Pakistan is a beautiful country but that the garbage and plastic that can be found everywhere really spoils the beauty.
    After our teaching trip we continued the walk to the glacier. As Hopar is easy to reach from Hunza and the ride is beautiful I am sure that quit some tourist make it up here at high season. This was obvious after seeing the number of hotels and little tourist shops.
    Davide could not catch his gasp as he looked down on to the Barpu glacier from the side of the moraine. What a site, it is so big and the view so spectacular that it is not possible to put this down in words. We walked down a narrow path and walked on top of the glacier. What a magnificent feeling walking on ice.
    Barpu glacier   We crossed the glacier and found our self a nice look out on the Moraine on the other side that connected to the next glacier. There we just sat looking out over two enormous glaciers lined with snow covered peaks. After one hour we had to leave this place to make it back to Karimabad before dawn. Again we walked and hitch hiked down the valley. Over and over we were confronted with mourning people (Shia muslims) that decorated shrines and mosques for the remembrance of the martyr Hussain who was slain many hundred years ago (this act lead to the separation in Islam). The mourning offered us rose water for a drink as we walked by.
    The next thing that blew our mind was a guy on a tall bike from. As we foreigners are happy to do some small talk among each other we stopped and talked about our experience. He was Spanish and cycled all the way from Spain through central Asia to Pakistan. An Engineer that quit his job because there was more in live that work!
    Good bye from our side, we will remember you as that “crazy” Spanish on his tall bike.
    Another car stopped and we hopped in and it took us to the Karimabad junction. We arrived just in time to hop on to one of those little Suzuki buses that was already full but we managed to hang on outside the bus.
    The dudes on the glacier   Hanging on the bus.    
    Day 24. This day we walked off to Aliabad to catch a minivan to Gilgit. We arrived in Gilgit a little late because of a detour that had to be taken as the road was blocked because of Shia Mourning parties for Imam Hussain. Police set the road block to avoid clashes between Sunni and Shia. In the past Gilgit area has been troubled by serious clashes between the two groups with high death tolls.
    In Gilgit we found a nice hostel. After dumping our gear we went for a walk in search of a Restaurant and found one. Davide was so happy when he saw that the menu had roasted chicken, so for him there was nothing else to look at. While entering the place I saw them hanging and they didn´t look very applying to me but as he looked so happy I couldn’t spoil his dream.
    So food was served and at the first bite of his roast chicken he almost bit out his teeth. The poor guy, so happy with his chicken but instead of a nice juicy chicken he was left with something called chicken but as hard as  stone. The rest of the afternoon we walked through Gilgit and enjoyed the people, views, smells and the freshly pressed mango juice. We sped passed the Mosques were tension was felt in the air. Back in our hostel we asked the owner what his thoughts were about the Shia mourning that was basically cutting of all of Gilgit Baltistan from the rest of the world as the KKH  and minor roads would be blocked for the main mourning day. This was kind of the wrong question as the guy took it seriously and started to give us a lecture about the great Imam Hussain and his “very” evil opponents.
    No wonder that things turn bad every now and then when people have “fanatical” visions like his.
    After the lecture of at least 5 minutes, were all I could do was nod to not infuriate the guy, he finally stopped and we had a little more understanding what the whole thing is about.
    After sensing the tension we decided it would be the smartest to leave Gilgit as soon as possible to avoid getting stuck and maybe miss our flight home.
    The same lecturing guy organized a taxi for early next morning.
    Fruit shop in Gilgit    
    Day 25. At 6 the taxi was there and of we went with a driver who didn´t speak a word of English.
    He could be a Taliban with his looks and big beard but he was really friendly and although we could not communicate through words we did great with sign language.
    We went through several police checks, saw people pan for gold deep down the Hunza river valley. After an hour we got to the point where  the Indus river enters the Hunza river. We passed  (killer mountain) Nanga Parbat with good weather and had beautiful views of the mountain. Initially we planned to go to fairy meadows at Nanga Parbat basecamp but after we found out that a police escort was needed we decided not to go (we kind of just had it with police!).
    We felt so privileged to see all this natural beauty. I just sat in the car and stared at this amazing landscape, wondering what things would look like behind the mountain ridges.
    Shortly before  the town of Chilas we had oily paratha breakfast and some tea before the driver turned off towards Babusar pass.
    Landscape and housing slowly changed and the valleys turned greener.
    On top of the pass there was a collection of tents and huts that served meals and tea (a nice and cold beer would have been great but don´t forget this is Pakistan).
    Since this road was “redone” most traffic coming from the Punjab takes this shorter route instead of the longer and more dangerous KKH option. More dangerous means that there have been quite a few bus hold ups and Shia and Sunni muslims killed and revenged each other.
    Going down the pass we drove through rolling green hills till we passed beautiful Lulusar lake were we made a brief stop.
    After the lake we entered the tourist area of Naran and Kaghan that is easy accessible from the Punjab.
    Although it was no holiday season we got stuck in semi traffic jams on the narrow roads. Hard to imagine what happens here when it is Pakistani holiday season. The valleys are lush with forests on their sides and it is not difficult to imagine that people want to spend their holidays here when the plains of Pakistan are “cooking”. The area is covered with hotels and guesthouse all along the valley.
    We passed a heavily guarded Chinese building site for a hydro power plant.
    The Pakistanis have a kind of joint venture thing going on when it comes to trade and construction with China (the new silk road). Not all pakistanis are happy with this. At lunch break Davide runs off to the toilet and coming back he tells me he´s got it again.  ohhhhh shit!
    Walnuts are for sale everywhere in this area so our driver stops on the road side and buys a few bags of walnuts and of we go again. The strange thing to me is that they cost more as they do in Germany.
    Finally we leave the Himalayas and reach Abbottabad (Yes; the town where they found Osama). I thought this was a small town but it takes ages to pass through. As it slowly turns dark we reach Islamabad and to our surprise our pre-arranged hostel even has air conditioning. What a treat for the two of us.
    Tea stop on the way from Gilgit to Islamabad    
     
     
    Day 26/27.   I spend the last two days with a bit of walking around doing nothing special. We had difficulties getting connected to the internet till the owner of a bookstore told me  that the government switched off all networks to avoid clashes between Sunni and Shia. Can you imagine in our western countries that the government just switches of all phone and internet connections?
    Had some great food during the last two days, did some shopping and had my shoes polished.  As an experienced trail runner I decided to go for a run in the Margalla hills. I don´t really have problems with heath but the Margalla hills really got me. It was humid and hot! Nice thing about the hills is the view on Islamabad the huge Shah Faisal mosque and the wild monkeys.
     
     Day 28. On our last day we made a very early start for Islamabad airport and flew home.
     
     
    Prologue:
    We had a fantastic trip although not everything worked out as planned.
    Would I do it again? Sadly I have to say no.
    The first reason is that it is almost impossible to get a Pakistani visa as an individual traveller.
    The second reason; there is too much police hassle in the country that gave us the feeling we are not welcome. As an experienced traveler and trekker I do things on my own (as I did in the mid-nineties) and don´t want to be ordered to use a guide.
    The website of the Pakistani tourism department (government) notes that you can trek in open zone areas and are free to do so (all treks that we planned where in open zone areas).
    My overall opinion is the police don’t care about this they just want you out of their area as quick as possible.
    I am sure that there are a lot of reasons for these upper issues but I don´t want to discuss these in detail in this blog.
    I just wish the things noted above will change in the future so that more western tourist can visit and enjoy Pakistan.
     
    A special thanks to Murrad, Ayub  and Zaman for their help and hospitality.
     
    If you have any questions feel free to ask.
     
     
     
  23. Danke!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von roli erhalten in Schnäppchen   
    SunnyBAG Leaf Pro gibt es bei Amazon temporär für 57,22€
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07CN5K8JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KxzhEbMRKMYZS
  24. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking reagierte auf TopperHarley in Suche Trailrunner   
    Trick 17: Mehr als ein paar Trailrunner im Schrank haben. Ist erstens gut für die Füße, wenn sie immer wieder in anderen Schuhen stecken und somit die Muskulatur unterschiedlich beansprucht wird und zweitens hat man dann den Ersatz schon zuhause, wenn ein paar Schuhe durch sind.
    Geld sparen kann man wenn man Vorjahresmodelle kauft. Salomon und Altra bringen zB. gerade neue Modelle auf den Markt und haben somit einige Sonderangebote.
     
     
  25. Gefällt mir!
    AudioHitchhiking hat eine Reaktion von TopperHarley erhalten in Suche Trailrunner   
    Wenn du wirklich jedes Wochenende 50km unterwegs bist wird leider kein Laufschuh 2 Jahre halten. Selbst ein Jahr wird bei der km Zahl zuviel für jeden Trailrunner sein. Selbst wenn das Außenmaterial noch intakt sein sollte (was beim wandern im Mittelgebirge und pfleglicher Behandlung bei robusten Modellen möglich sein könnte) werden Sohle und vor allem die Dämpfung der limitierende Faktor sein.
    Für Laufschuhe gilt die Faustregel dass ein Schuh je nach Bauart und Einsatz zwischen 500 und 1000 km ersetzt werden sollte, vereinfacht (und meiner Erfahrung nach durchaus realistisch) wird oft von 800 km gesprochen. Werden Schuhe “nur“ zum wandern nicht zum laufen verwendet, erhöht sich der Wert normalerweise.
     
    Ich persönlich hab gute Erfahrungen mit den Hoka Schuhen gemacht(speziell Torrent und Speedgoat). Mit beiden dürfte ich jeweils zwischen 1000 und 1200 km gelaufen sein. Bei Altras ist mir die Toebox zu breit, deswegen habe ich nie einen länger getragen und kann zu deren Haltbarkeit nichts sagen.
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